Modal editing

The textarea below is an ordinary textarea inside an ordinary form: it takes a caret, it takes typing, and it posts exactly what it always posted. If /vim.js loads and can drive it, it also answers to Esc, i, dd and friends, and the statusline and the reference below appear to say so. Nothing is stashed behind a <noscript>: the plain textarea is what the server sent, and the modal furniture is only revealed once the keys are actually wired, so a script that never runs and a script that breaks halfway both leave the same page.